The atmosphere of Martine Rose’s AW25 was more editorial and grungier as she decided to shoot it as a look book instead of a runway show. It was staged in an unconventional and industrial location with simple backgrounds and use of bright colours. The mood was nostalgic, intimate yet gritty, lending itself to the clothes. The first look was bold featuring a pair of yellow underwear with an oversized winter jacket. All this paired with a punk short haircut, chunky jewellery and knee-high leather boots. 

The collection was inspired by London’s market stall traders, archival workwear, eccentric market characters, and street/sportswear sold at car boot sales. The entire collection evokes a sense of British nostalgia and includes DIY elements- unmistakenly her. The colour palette features muted neutrals, rich browns and earthy shades, faded denim blues, deep blacks, and bold primary pops with subtle hints of animal prints. The materials used feature denim, leather, suede, and faux fur. Finally, the silhouettes were boxy tailoring, slouchy trousers, cropped jackets, layered proportions, and tapered knits. These elements reflect a nonchalant attitude and emphasise comfort and personality over fashion. The proportions blur the lines of traditional masculinity. 

There were multiple standout looks that got my attention. One look featured boxy, cropped leather jackets layered with sun-bleached trousers. Another look used a colour-blocked knit with a collared shirt and wide-leg trousers. The collection included many other clothing choices I enjoyed. Exaggerated silhouettes, fringed suede trousers and animal print skirts, statement accessories, square-toe boots and layered styling. One of my favourite looks was the animal print wrap skirt. It’s black with faux fur leopard print and tiger outlining, and a logo-heavy blue and white striped jersey tucked in. The maximalist outfit is true to Rose’s aesthetic as it embraces clashing references and celebrates individuality as well as disrupting fashion norms. Another was a striped multi-colour polo, a cropped leather jacket, and grey faded flared jeans. This look had a nostalgic vintage feel that aligns with Martine Rose’s vibe- drawing from British subculture and rejecting trend fashion. 

Martine Rose continues to redefine menswear and masculinity by blending toughness with eccentricity. Her AW25 feels deeply personal and is constantly pushing fashion forward by looking into the past- nostalgia radicalised. Clashing references through texture and maximalism leave a lasting impression and are central to her vision. Staying rooted in community and lived experience is what makes her work always gritty, emotional, and unmistakably Martine Rose.